In and around La Paz

Now I'm about two weeks in La Paz, the time flies by. Most of the time I spend in the café, there are always things to do and there are usually interesting people around

There have been elections on Easter Sunday. Apparently this means that during daytime it´s not allowed to sell alcohol or drive a car. All other cafes were apparently closed, for in Chuquiago all hell broke loose. For me it was like jumping into cold water. Except me Francois, a cyclist from France and his girlfriend Elli from Spain were there. That day I learned a lot, especially that there is no “right” or “wrong”, but only a “different” and that it is the best if I do it the way I would like to have it. Here in Bolivia everybody is used to wait and most people are very broadminded.


Only towards the late afternoon I could ride on the empty streets to my friend Caroline, who fortunately also had a washing machine and where I took the opportunity to stock up with German and English literature.




It is also fun to discover the endless markets.

You never now where the first market ends and the next one begins.


Especially on the weekend more and more women arrive with their tomatoes and bananas and the road is closed for traffic.




Cristian not only operates the Bike-Café, but also is President of the bike-club of La Paz. There was a downhill-race organized for the 11.April, beginning in Chacaltaya, the highest Ski-area of the world, down to La Paz. Because of the global warming the whole glacier is molten, and there is no Ski-running possible anymore.


On Thursday before the race Cristian had to check the track with his 4WD and to complete all the markings. So I had the pleasure to test the course with my bike.


We traveled up backcountry roads until the top of the mountain.

The landscape was absolutely stunning. Many small lakes,

With a view of Illimani, 6438 above sea level the second highest mountain in Bolivia.

It was very astonishing to see how many lamas survived at this altitude.

In parts the track was so narrow and hard to recognise at all and I wouldn´t believe that there was space enough for 4 wheels.

2 other Bolovian bikers were accompanying me, 1 official, a driver and of course Cristian.
 

The light on this altitude is terrific.

Finally we reached our starting point at the height of 5183 m.a.s.l. I´ve never been up so high. It was a weird feeling, a bit dizzy. You shouldn´t worry about high-altitude-sickness. Anyway I was glad that I just had to ride downhill.

Just in time when we arrived some clouds appeared and it began to snow, it was very cold, and we started to fix our bikes.

And we made our way downwards on gravel

With a fantastic view of the surrounding mountains.

The track was marked nearly completely for the race on the following sunday.

From above we catched a glimpse of the city of La Paz, built in slopes and cliffs.

At the end of our tour there was a single trail until the finish line.

Back on the main road we quickly arrived at the cafe. Although we only rode downhill I was really exhausted. Before the tour I refused a bike with a good suspension offered by Cristian because I didn´t want to do it without my brakes. In the evening my forearm hurt badly.

On Sunday morning, the day of the big race, we first delivered Elli and Francois to El Alto. After 3 months in La Paz they really wanted to go on. Let´s see for how long I will stay here.

Cristian took the opportunity to explore the area to discover some new mountain bike tracks.

Sometimes I ask myself how someone can live in these slopes and cliffs.

All streets will be washed away by the next landslide.

But obviously there are no earthquakes at all.

And above all the Illimani is enthroned.

 

Afterwards Cristian drove up the Chacaltaya and I went back to the Café, because Sundays is the busiest day.

Not until late afternoon I rode with my bike up to El Alto to the finish line to welcome the winners of the downhill race.

The winner was two times faster than us on the previous day.

In the beautiful light of dusk I headed down to the café in La Paz


The next week I have spent almost only in the café. For me, it was a fantastic variety. It is rarely so busy that you can no longer talk to the guests. On my recent trip I saw so many places, churches and museums that I found the café more exciting.


Only Cristian and Luisa wanted me to sightsee in La Paz. They took me with them wherever they went. One day I viwwent to a Bossa Nova concert with music that I am not familiar with, but of course, fits much better here in the Bolivian culture. It was then totally fantastic.




On Saturday I decided to ride to the ”moon valley, ”Valle de la luna”. I have been there with Luisa before, but I wanted to go back with my bike and a camera. Because I went to the southern part of La Paz anyway because of a students-bike-race I took the opportunity to go there. The southern part of the city is situated 400 m lower than the city centre.

It was unique again. Every time I am astonished how well riding the bike works after such a long break.

Imagine a landscape on the moon only with pointed jags.

It is amazing that plants can survive in such a rugged landscape.

When I arrived back to the cafe, I recognized a familiar face. At first I thought it was a guest who had been here before, for now I know a lot of faces. But then he said we met in La Serena, Chile, before. It was immediately clear to me who he was, a bike rider form the UK., and he came as summoned.

On Monday, I wanted to ride the · Camino de La Morte ¨, the death road, still hoping that someone came along with me. A guided tour was inconsiderable. Almost everyone, whether cyclists or not, makes this tour if he is in La Paz. Peter wanted to ride it too, so we decided to start together on Monday, 19:02.

On Sunday I was invited back to Caroline, also with many other Germans. Amazing to see how many Germans remained here already. Very understandable. My plan is still to go further, if I receive my credit card.