On 26 April I was finally on the road again. Not only because of the heavy luggage I could not easily leave La Paz. And instantly up to El Alto on 4100 m elevation, amazing how smooth I till could go!. El Alto is now bigger than La Paz, it took some time until I was through there, but then again the traffic became more quiet again and Lake Titicaca came in sight.
And again some Quinoa-fields in the foreground.
Nearly everything in Bolivia is said to be the highest…, for example the highest situated Marina in the world. The most interesting fact about the little town Huatajata is that the worlds best rushboat-builders are living here who helped building the Kontiki II.
The landscape was so beautiful and after 3 weeks in the house I wanted again to stay overnight in my tent. Only at the lake was all swamp and reed. When I finally was too tired to go further, I asked in a village for a place where I could set up my tent. A woman with a wide grin on her face ever took me to her house, where four children were grinning, especially the youngest one had the same broad grin. Then a woman arrived and nobody had to tell me that she was the sister of my host, nearly beeing a twin with the same broad grin.
In the courtyard, I had no view of the lake anymore, but it was quiet and safe. When I asked for a toilet, she told me that she had none, but that the children could lead me to the public toilet. It was already dark when I went through the village to the other end. My luck was that it was already dark and that I had my head torch. The toilet was really in a state that as if it was really the only one for the whole village. But I can hardly imagine that always have to do this walk if they have to go to the bathroom. Amazing how fast my bladder adapted to this situation, it did not report in the next few hours.
According to the cozy weeks in La Paz, I had forgotten how cold the nights are. It was not long before I was again wrapped in my sleeping bag.
Of course on the next day everyone was awake again early, so I had no choice but to get up early as well and pack up. I started with my warmest clothes on and luckily the road first went up the mountain. It was not far to Tiquina, the divided city, San Pablo and San Petro, in between Lake Titicaca at its narrowest point.
On a very shaky boat with a very weak outboard-motor I set over to the other shore.
On the other side I was welcomed by an Indian.
Like on a scenic road I rode up the mountain and along in the top with an excellent view of the lake.
I was wondering whether Astrid Lindgren had also been here. I doubted it. The idea I had of Pipi Longstocking and Lake Titicaca, was different than the reality. The lake is beautiful surrounded by high mountains. Or was it Takatuka instead of Titicaca?!?
Eventually, it went down to Copacabana.
My first stop was the basilika where the very famous black Madonna is stored. She was unfortunately just absent, probably for renovation. But the doors of the Basilica were very impressive, too.
Otherwise, my first impression was that this place is very touristy and I did´nt have to stay here longer. The majority of tourists just come here to visit the Isla del Sol. I save this place up for future travelling. I do not have suitable shoes for the inka trail anyway.
Down by the lake it was quite nice, the rush boats rocking in the water.
At the very edge of the town I found a nice hostel, especially because I had a nice view over the lake. In general, at sunset it was again wonderful.
From here it was not far to the border of Peru. One final view of the city and on I went to Peru.
At the border they found out that I had overdrawn my visa by 6 days. Normally you get 90 days for Bolivia, but apparently not on every border. I had a visum only granted for 30 days and I had to pay 20 bolivianos, about 2 € for every single overdraft day. I put down everything I had, which was 70 Bolivianos. So they seemed to be satisfied, but only after the customs officer was allowed to put on my helmet.
After what I had been told by other travelers, I once again came right off lightly.
The entry to Peru was quick and easy. This time I paid attention, however, that I got a visa for 90 days.
As usual in a new country, I first had get the local currency, because I could not not change Bolivianos any more. So I went to next village. They indeed had banks, but no ATMs. So I changed my last U.S. dollars, which you can do almost everywhere.
I proceeded further aloong the lake. Because there are mainly Aymaras here in this region there were hardly any big differences noticeable. Except of the vehicles, especially the three-wheeled Motortaxis and the cars are newer and faster and have the louder horns.
It went through pretty little villages, but unfortunately people were no longer so reserved, until I no longer wanted to go further and decided to ask in one town for a place to camp. First it was negative, I would have to go further to Puno, but soon after I followed a girl, who was herding some sheep on a football field and asked her if I could camp here. She answered that she first had to ask the Segnora. So I waited until the Segnora came. As this was a Public place the town principal had to be asked. So I waited until the town principal came. She was quite hesitant at first, they were not used to tourism, but then allowed me to set up camp behind a house. Everything here is so complicated.
Since I heard nothing good about the people in Peru and because of the high population density I did not want to camp wild somewhere.
Here on the meadow, it was quite nice and in the corner there even stood of one of the new bright blue toilets. I recognized them just after crossing the border already. It seemed as if the government had delighted the residents with the facilities. Almost every house had either a bright blue or bright green, fairly new “toilet-cottage”.
Before the first brave daredevils who actually came to play football, had looked around the corner the next morning, I had already had breakfast and was on the packing up. Up to Puno, it was not long, the last tourist city beside the lake. When I arrived,
I was surprised that everything was still closed, even the tourist office. I was told that it opened at nine clock. On my watch it was already 9 o´clock.. So instead of turning back my clock one hour, I turned it forward one hour.
It did not like this idea, i.e. it is already dark by 17 clock and sun rises at 6 in the morning But what the hell, I was not living after clock, but after the rhythm of the sun.
After Puno I had to climb up again, with a last view of the lake.
and after that flat and very straight to Juliaca, quite a big industrial city which doesn´t suit tourists. I was too tired to go on and didn´t even think of it. People weren´t too friendly to me and stole my waterbottle right away., but no worries about that.
The accomodation I had decided to stay in overight was double-expensive than the Lonely-Planet price and the staff very unfriendly which encouraged me again in my decision never to pick out a accomodation mentioned in Lonely Planet. But it´s quite good to know where accomodation in general is provided, so I found a much cheaper place next door. But actually it wasn´t so nice as well. But I keep telling myself: What the heck, it´s just for one night anyway.
But after I dared to take a look how the toilets were cleaned I decided to pay a bit more for accomodation. I won´t mention details here…
The room was pretty quiet, but somehow everything started to itch. The next day I went to the ATM to get money to find a better room in the future.
In dirt and dust I went out of town. I was just about to get a negative opinion of Peru when it suddenly became very beautiful again, green mountains and rocks around me, small villages and the people were nicer as well.
Only the headwind grew stronger. I made a little rest in a small village and thought that maybe Inka-Cola would give me the energie to proceed.
The only thing this drink has in common with Coca Cola is sugar, and I really don´t know what ingredients are in there anyway. I don´t like both Colas anyway and Inka Cola didn´t help against the head wind as well.
After I went on dark clouds appeared.
Just as I passed along a small farm it began to hail and thunder practically didn´t stop any more.
So yet I had to turn around and seek refuge in the pigsty. After 30 min the worst was over, it was still raining lightly and it was extremly cold. Luckily it wasn´t too far to go until Ayuviri. My only desire was an accomodation with a hot shower.
The centre of this city was big as well with a huge plaza, but here it was special: A huge churched occupied the centre. A little market was placed around it where I could get a warm meal. Not far from here in a small alley I found a cheap and nice hostal, but unfortunately without a hot shower. Not my choice today! So I decided to take the more expensive one directly in the city. After I returned from a short stroll in the vicinity I was looking forward for a hot shower, but… no hot water available anymore. These are the moments I have to control myself not to scream out loud. One employee of the hotel obviously forgot to turn it on, so I had to wait for another two hours to get a warm shower. But meanwhile I got some hot water for my tea.
There was a very loud event going on on the Plaza with music and a speaker who sounded like all speakers. I was so tired and wet and cold that I didn´t care, I was just waiting for my hot shower and wanted to sleep. It was not until the next day that I noticed that I totally missed the dance in the May.
I stood before one of the last mountain passes just before I reached Cusco, yet again, I had to climb up to about 4300m. It had stopped raining, but the sky was still cloudy. Right before the summit, it started to rain, and just long enough that I got pretty wet. Shortly thereafter, I met a travel cyclist, but with very little luggage. A moment later I realized why, because his wife was coming behind him with a fully loaded motorbike. Also a very practical solution.
They gave me some good accomodation-hints, but warned me off the coastal road, and especially against the Peruvians. Never before travelers have spoken as conterminous negatively of like about Peru. I also had made my not so friendly experiences but also met very friendly people.
I decided to take the warning note and to continue without being affected by it. Of course a few negative experiences can quickly dull an overall picture. But I am convinced that also in this country there are more nice than not so nice people, maybe more not so nice people than in other countries.
Since it was too cold for me, I said goodbye and drove on, and only after a few kilometers, as previoously announced, I met a Japanese guy on a folding bike, also travelling with very little luggage from Cusco to La Paz in 2 weeks.
At the summit, I've only made just a few photos.
But very quickly I went on because you can´t enjoy the scenery in peace. Also here a lot of souveniers are offered
I proceeded next to a river down to a valley bed.
The landscape changed, it got greener, with more trees and birds.
First it went past hot springs where the locals roamed around. In the next village apparently all costunme groups of the area celebrated a big meeting.
So finally I had my little piece of the german tradition “Dance into the May”.
That was apparently the whole weekend, yet the next day I saw people in traditional clothing on a market
Slowly I noticed that I approached the Sacred Valley of the Incas.
More and more signs indicating old historical sites were seen and also some old ruins from the road.
Also I realized slowly that Peru is really mountainous. The roads are sometimes very steep.
Prior to Cusco in a small, nice Andes-village, I made another stop. Here, too, were almost no tourists, except that there are the "Sistine Chapel of the Andes". It is so close to Cusco, that you can see it well in a day's stage with historical sites.
Buses arrive and quickly depart again.
I was amazed to see the Waldorf office was right next to the church, a development project for the especially for the women of the Andes
The trip to Cusco was no longer so pleasant. It is also the third largest city in Peru, a lot of traffic, noisy and dusty. The city itself is also completely unsuitable for cycling. In narrow one-way streets I had to cycle in the wrong direction,
nearly impossible to get in the opposite direction with a packed bicycle.
In the alleys you´ll always find steps.
So I just visited a hostel, parked my bike there and went exploring by foot. So it was much better.
Cusco is a really nice city but very expensive and neat, it is practically the starting point for Machu Picchu. In general, however, I was not attracted by this tourist attraction.
I could have done it in a day, by train, but the costs for the short distance are 180 USD.
If you invested several days, even if I went partly with a bike, it would have been cheaper. However, I would not invest so much money nor time.
I can still do it when I come back as a tourist with better shoes. This time I just wanted to go on.
Instead I choosed to explore the city more closely. Besides the many artists who have settled here, of course,
there are traces of the Incas.
all the thick, old walls.
Qurikancha the temple I have looked at more closely. Once a main temple of the Incas, it was handed over to the Dominicans. After an earthquake, they have built a superstructure in their own style so today is a hodgepodge of styles.
Amazing how the ancient Incas were able to treat the large stone blocks.
On 5 May I again left the city of the Incas. Also, despite warnings, I decided to drive further towards Lima. After spending three weeks in La Paz, I now wanted to move forward fast. I also wanted to get back to warmer climates, in direction to the sea.
